First of all, I would like to thank all those who continue to read this blog. I have received so many positive comments from family, friends, and frankly people did not expect would be reading this! Writing has always been a secret passion of mine and it is very interesting to hear people comment about my writing style. I never expect this blog to be for anyone other than myself but I am glad I am continuing to share my thoughts. Now, without further adieu…
Krakow, Poland, a city that was not on my radar when I started this trip in August. I had heard of Krakow through Lucas as he had done a trip earlier in the semester hiking in the Tatras in Poland and spent a night in Krakow. I would go to Krakow through a group of 10 classmates (with a demographic including mainly Portuguese, American, and German) and spend 4 days in the city (including travel time). I knew when I started this trip that my best adventures would be ones I wasn’t going to plan in advance and the trip to Krakow is the absolute best example of this.
Friday morning we depart early for our bus to Poland, a 7 hour journey. In reality the trip lasted nearly 8.5 hours due to a large delay at a passport check at the Polish border. This was perhaps the only negative portion of my trip as after the border official reviewed my passport he walked away and took it off the bus. As an American who rarely travels and knows how important his passport is, this was rather unsettling. I had to wait nearly an hour and a half before the official returned to the bus with my passport (along with several others taken from passengers) and passed back my passport and we were sent on our way. This was the first time my passport was checked at a border since I entered the EU.
Our group had a laundry list of things to do once we got into Krakow and we spared no time finding our hostel (an amazing place!), checking in, and then leaving for our first attraction – Schindler’s Factory. It was a really great museum that taught me a lot about this history of Krakow just before and during the second World War. It was an amazing experience to have walked through a city that had once been the capital cities of the Nazis, that had been bombed and attacked and occupied, and you wouldn’t have known it walking through the city today. It was my first taste of the rich history the city of Krakow had to offer.
The museum focused on the day to day lives of those in Krakow before and during the occupation. We learned that the Krakow army attempted to defend the city but were forced to immediately retreat and within less than a week they were wiped out. We saw the effects of war on the city and we saw what happened to the Jews of the city. It was gut wrenching the hear the accounts of those living in the Jewish district at the time as they were literally walled in as the Germans took control of the city. Horrific story after horrific story were displayed about how brothers and fathers were sent to work, some never to return and the descriptions of the awful living conditions. The worst part was after you read the paragraph of the story, it would be sourced by a name and then an age… the oldest of which I read was 14. The youngest was 2.
The moment that really stuck out to me from the museum was about halfway through, as I turned a corner and learned that the Nazis invited 300 professors and students to a lecture only to have them all arrested. The Third Reich was commanding the city fall under their new world order, something that must have been so terrifying to the citizens of Krakow. I got up to move to the next room, but as I turned the corner I was stopped dead in my tracks. There, hanging before me, were two large, clean, brightly colored, ceiling to floor length Nazi flags. I have grown up knowing about the Nazi’s, I’ve seen countless photographs of Nazi flags, Nazi officers, both in color and black and white, but I never stared one in the face. Before that moment that Nazi symbol was taboo. I knew what it stood for and knew it was a terrible thing, but to see it displayed almost proudly in the museum really struck me.
The next morning we awoke, had breakfast in the hostel, and departed for our next stop and perhaps the most important reason for visiting Krakow – Auschwitz. It was truly remarkable experience. We were guided through the camp learning about the history of the complex and saw many things that I have heard about or seen pictures of in textbooks growing up. There are so many specifics that it’s hard to even keep track of them all, so I will reflect on my two biggest take-aways from my visit. The first being how difficult it was for me to comprehend what had transpired at the place I was. Even though I was standing where these events occurred, knowing the scale in which this was actually accomplished made it difficult for me to place all that had transpired into one specific place in the camp. One moment that solidified this was part of the exhibit where we walked down a hallway with pictures of prisoners on the wall, each with their name, nationality, date of arrival and date of death. Women on the left, men on the right, stacked 3 high and the hallway must have been over 100ft long. Most of the dates fell withing 4-6 months of each other… and after seeing the horrific conditions and death totals and knowing all that transpired, it was surprisingly difficult to look at the individual and isolate them from the rest of the hundreds of pictures on the wall. The second, was how I walked away being thankful we no longer live in a world where Auschwitz/Birkenau were possible. Don’t get me wrong, a lot of things in this world are terrible, and there are plenty of human rights violations and genocides occurring all over the world, but I do not think we live in a world where people could sit idely by, even unknowing, about the atrocities that the Nazis performed. The first quote I read at Auschwitz has always stuck with me but perhaps is most important with the Holocaust:
After Auchwitz and Birkenau we returned to our hostel and attempted to find restaurant that could offer us a “traditional polish dinner”, and boy did we succeed! Stuffed, we made our way through the city’s Market Square and took in a bit of the night life. We started our night at the House of Beer (a recommendation by Lucas), and just had a great time taking in the night life of Krakow. The market square at night is just as lively as during the day and the weather was just perfect to walk around at night.
The next morning we all got up and made our way back to the market square for a tour of the Old Town. Again, there is so much history that we learned in the 3 hour tour that it is hard to include in a single posting. I was delighted to learn about the history of Krakow as well as some of the legends. My favorite part of the tour was learning that the city of Krakow was established in 800 AD. Compared to that the United States is merely an infant. I took some great pictures that each have a story of their own – perhaps if you want to know those we’ll have to go through the album together!
Later that day we went to another iconic landmark near Krakow, the Salt Mines. These mines are hundreds of kilometers long and up to 300m below the surface. To walk through the mines was a very cool experience as some of the rooms were enormous! There are 3 chapels in the mines, one near the entrance, one near the exit, and one in the mine. The one in the mind is by far one of the most impressive engineering feats I have ever seen, the room was enormous and each portion of the chapel was intricately carved out of pure rock salt. What made the place even more fascinating was that the entire chapel was created by 3 men in their off time and it took them 68 years! All in all, a really great place to visit. The interesting thing is that since the mines are so touristy and used for so many things, where are 2 gift shops over 100m under the surface!
That night was probably one of my favorite nights in Europe, outside of Budapest. We spent the evening wandering around the market square, grabbing food where we can, and trying to find a nice place to relax and have a drink before we left the next morning. Luckily, I had seen that there was a jazz bar in the square and we happened to pass it while they were having a special on wine. We went in and sat down to hear the band play – and that was by far the best decision we made on the trip. The band had a piano, bass, electric vibes, percussion player, drums, and a singer. Each and every member had real talent, and let me tell you, I have never so thoroughly enjoyed a live music performance quite like this. Only thing better would be if they had a sax!
Monday was our final day in Krakow, so we checked out of our hotel and caught part of the Jewish District tour. Again, another great chance to learn a lot of history of the city. Jews had a long history in Krakow, especially during the Second World War when the Nazis invaded and created the Jewish Ghetto… but was surprising to me was to know the number of Jews living in Krakow before the war, and to find out the number of Jews living in Krakow today – only 200. That’s right, only 200 in the massive city of Krakow. More surprising still was there is still an active Jewish community in Krakow, including an annual festival (which our tour guide had participated, but not being Jewish itself). We were sad we had to cut the tour short and sadder still to leave Krakow.
All in all, Krakow has made it on my list of favorite cities in Europe. I even hope I can go back there one day to learn even more about the cities history! However, Bratislava will still be the first city I fell in love with, and honestly nothing can top Budapest!
As a final side note, Lucas informed me the other day that him and I are known among the exchange students at BME as “The Frisbee Guys.” Not bad!
Below, as promised, is a small gallery of some of my best photos from the trip.